We know fruit trees can live to considerable ages and the link on the Home Page (the second oldest apple tree) goes into detail about this. In pursuit of the oldest trees, and pushing the dates further back, we thought it might be helpful to fellow enthusiasts to record our experiences of tree ring counting and offer a few tips.

The trouble with dating old fruit trees, particularly apples, is that they tend to go hollow in old age, partially or wholly losing the ring evidence. Carbon dating is not possible because the timescale is too narrow for accuracy over a few centuries. But when the trunk is largely intact and the tree has come down or died, the use of ring counting is a relatively simple, inexpensive and accurate method to date a tree. Core sampling can be very effective if the tree is still standing and living, but does come at a cost with the need for professional sampling and counting. Though it should not damage the tree if competently done, there is always the worry for an owner that it might.

We should say at this point that we most definitely do not recommend cutting down living trees, even if very decrepit, and even if the tree has fallen over it can still be encouraged to re-root and re-grow, by mounding soil around the fallen trunk. If it is truly dead and not hollow – why not have a go at counting the rings?

Being hollow up high does not necessarily mean it will be hollow low own, but it often is. There can also be pockets of decay within the trunk and soft spongy areas, usually the result of water getting in from hollow branches above. The photograph below has both of these impediments and also areas of discoloration that can reduce the visibility of rings. Nevertheless, with the right approach, the rings can often be counted.

If it is not stating the obvious, a ring corresponds with one year’s growth of the tree, the outermost being the most recent. When growth conditions are good, with enough moisture, light and warmth, the rings will be wide. In lean years the rings can be very close, and easily missed without the aid of a magnifying glass. Dendrochronologists can glean sophisticated climatic data from such rings and can then use the sequences of ring spacing to date fragments of wood. Although we do not believe anyone has yet done this with apples, it may well be possible to date an apple from the inner trunk if this remains intact and the rest is lost.

The first tip is to cut the section of trunk as cleanly and flatly as possible. Usually a chain saw would be used and it will save a lot of time later if the cut is level, even and as smooth as possible. The section will need to be sanded finely and a rough uneven cut will need a lot of sanding and will make the use of a flat sanding machine difficult if the face is uneven.

The second necessity is to allow the wood to dry out. Even if dead, apple wood seems to absorb moisture from the air when outside and with dead trees there may well be significant rain penetration that must be allowed to evaporate. This can take several days in the dry and warm. Do not be too concerned if cracks start to appear, radiating in from the edge. This will not become so serious that ring counting is compromised.

The third stage is the sanding and since this would be a very long and arduous job by hand (unless the section has been cut with a very fine toothed saw) you should use an electric sander. We suspect that an electric plane would do the job equally well, if not better. Initially you may not be able to see the rings at all, before sanding. You will know when you have sanded enough and the rings are fully revealed. You should then dust off the surface and wipe it thoroughly with a wet cloth, several times. Leave to dry! Do not be temped to use oils to bring the rings out. It doesn’t really work.

The rings will now be visible where the wood is solid and undecayed, but there may be areas where the wood has gone pulpy or even hollow. Plan the ring counting, hoping to go around decayed areas and pick up the rings again further round. Often, in the very centre of the trunk the wood will be pulpy and the sanding will have left it slightly depressed, with no rings visible. These areas can often be made to reveal their rings by wetting the wood and using an obliquely shining light on them. They come into relief and can be counted separately, the rest being counted when dry.

We have found the best way to avoid losing count is to use dressmakers’ pins. Counting from the centre outwards, put a pin into a ring at every ten, then count up the pins at the end.

Good Luck. If you should come up with a tree ring count of 150 plus, please do let us know.

A section of an old apple tree that blew over in the possession of Mr and Mrs Stephen Ciampi, near Princes Risborough, Buckinghamshire. The trunk varied between 16 and 18 inches in diameter.

The photo( right) shows that two pockets have gone hollow and the central core was pithy and soft. The latter revealed its rings by being wetted and with the aid of a light shining sideways.

The staining did not interfere with the visibility of the rings.

The colour, visibility and spacing of the rings can vary enormously. This tree (left) had several good recent years of growth.

The rings become visible only with fine sanding.

The bark shown here, both rough and light brown, does not count as a ring!

THIS TREE HAD 98 RINGS